There's something about the word 'contouring' that instils fear in even the most make-up savvy among us – and if the concept of cheekbone-chiselling breaks you out in a sweat, frankly, it's understandable.
While the Kardashians and their glam teams – think the talented Mario Dedivanovic and Joyce Bonelli – make contouring look strikingly effective on Instagram, it's true the technique doesn't always translate well into real life. Turns out, the soft-focus filter of your camera lens can make a contoured face look a lot more flattering than the harsh reality of your neon office lighting.
What's more, knowing exactly how to wield a contour kit correctly – what products to use and the tones to go for – is a tricky thing for the most accomplished of make-up users.
But a killer contour can be transformative: when done subtly and stealthily, you can define your cheekbones and lift your entire face, creating structure to rival the 1990's supers in a few strategic strokes.
Here, Bobbi Brown Pro Artist, Zara Findlay, reveals the trade secrets.
How to contour: the tone
When it comes to contouring, so many of us fall at the first hurdle – and understandably so. Finding the right tones for a believable contour is tricker than it may seem: not only do you need to select the right shade, but you need to find the right balance of warm and cool undertones, too.
According to Findlay, the best colours for contouring will depend on the end result you’re hoping to achieve. ‘If you want more definition, pick a cool-toned colour,’ she says. ‘However, if you’re going more for sun-kissed warmth, opt for a warmer tone. Don’t be afraid of picking a colour much deeper than your skin tone as this will create more definition – just make sure to only use a small amount.’
How to contour: the texture
It’s hard to believe that, not so many years ago, the dominant make-up texture was an air-whipped mousse. Now, there are plenty of brilliant formulas out there for creating hyper-realistic, seamless base looks – no cakey lines in sight. So, which ones are best for contouring? Really, it depends on your skin type, and how sharp you want your cheekbones to be.
'A cream contour is better for someone with a normal to dry complexion and a powder contour is better for someone with a normal to oily complexion,' says Findlay. What’s more, a cream contour stick will generally be easier to apply and blend, so is a good idea for any nervous newcomers.
A powder, on the other hand, offers higher impact and longevity: ideal for big nights out. ‘A cream contour is better if you want a dewy, more natural finish to the skin and a powder contour is better if you want a more defined, matte finish,’ adds Findlay.
Top tip: If you opt for a palette, rather than sticks, paint each shade on to the skin using a flat brush - the bristles are densely packed together and therefore hold more product than anything fluffier.
The best cream contours
If you consider yourself a pro, reach for a cream contour palette. For those with less of a steady hand, opt for foundation and concealer sticks which are much easier to handle.
With a petite rounded head, Bobbi Brown's new Concealer Sticks are brilliant for defining just beneath your cheekbone. The long-wear finish won't smudge or shift, either.
More of a gel than a cream, this swipe-on stick is sheer and translucent, so promises a subtle, natural result that's neither to dewy nor too drying.
One of our favourite recent discoveries, this ultra-natural contour stick is effortless to blend and looks beautifully believable.
For those who want to take things to the next level, this six-shade contour palette is perfect.
The best powder contours
Powder contour products are your best bet if you want extra definition that lasts all day (or all night). The best are virtually weightless and they tend to soak up any oil produced by pores throughout the day – good news for oily types.
This comprehensive kit contains three contour powders alongside corresponding highlighters to ensure a perfect colour-match.
The legendary Kevyn Aucoin was the king of facial sculpting, and his iconic brand still makes the best contour products. This suits-all powder comes in a trio of shades that are all cool without veering into ashy territory.
A perfectly matte bronzer is ideal for creating a warm, flattering contour.
Charlotte Tilbury knows a thing or two about creating a glamorous contour. This iconic duo slims down cheekbones and makes the high points of your face really pop.
Top tip: Be sure to tap your brush to get rid of the excess powder to make blending easier
How to contour: the tools
Wade into the murky depths of Instagram and you’ll find influencers using a whole host of tools to apply their contour – but when it comes to that professional finish, a good old-fashioned brush still wins.
Findlay recommends ‘using a small stippling brush – I use Bobbi Brown’s Full Coverage Foundation Brush or Precise Buffing Brush – for a cream contour as this works perfectly to precisely blend it out, and a soft tapered powder brush like our Sheer Powder Brush to blend a powder contour.’
The best contouring brushes
Forget the blenders, sponges and faffy applicators: the best way to apply a cheek contour is with a traditional brush. These are the ones we always rely on.
This brush is Findlay's choice for buffing out a cream cheek contour.
And for powders, this lighter brush is spot-on.
This one is small and stubby, with dense bristles that are ideal for sharply defined looks. If you want a little extra precision, you've found your winner.
An angled brush is ideal for tucking right under your cheekbones – this one works perfectly with powders.
How to contour: the pro tricks
You’ve got your tools, now it’s time to carve those cheekbones: take Findlay’s pro tips on board, and you’re well on the way to creating the most professional definition.
Rule number one: don’t draw those sweeping lines on your face, no matter what social media has told you. ‘You only need a small amount of product when contouring, so instead tap small dots on the face,’ advises Findlay. ‘Start on the very tops of your cheekbones (not the hollows) as this will create a more lifted natural look. Then, place a few dots along each corner of the forehead and a very small amount along the jawline. Use a stippling brush (preferably the one you have already used for your foundation as this will blend it out better) and buff the dots in to create a soft, natural contour.’
How to contour: the finishing touch
If you're after razor-sharp face structure, finishing your look with a strategic swipe of highlighter will really seal the deal. Adorn the tops of your cheekbones and the tip of your nose with a light-reflecting cream or powder, and it’ll intensify the light-and-shade effect of your contour, making the high points of your face really pop.
Top tip: If you have darker skin, steer away from shades with yellow undertones to contour with, as they can drain the skin of colour. The same goes for highlighter - pearly, opalescent shades can look ashy on darker skin, whereas warm and reddish tones always look sublime.
The best highlighters to complete your contour
We're obsessed with Milk's brand-new liquid highlighters: dab on a tiny drop, then blend with a finger for the dewiest glow.
This fan-favourite powder delivers longevity without in-your-face glitter.
A cream highlighter with major staying power? It could only be Hourglass.
This genius dual stick contains a perfectly matched highlight and contour in one: simply swipe and blend for a seriously flawless result.
Et voila! Sky high cheek bones for days.
George Driver was the former Senior Beauty Editor - Digital at ELLE UK.
Roberta Schroeder is the Senior Ecommerce Editor at Harper's Bazaar, ELLE and Esquire, overseeing shopping strategy and content across fashion, beauty, and travel. Roberta has reported on everything from market-leading skincare brands to the world’s most iconic fashion pieces, while also regularly updating a range of shopping guides, including LED masks, heritage cashmere brands and niche new dress brands to know.
Roberta has more than 15 years' experience in the luxury sector, spanning editorial consultancy, trend forecasting and journalism. Over the years, she has worked for global brands including Farfetch, Chanel, and Vogue.
When not testing beauty products, trialling trends and curating content that spotlights the very best in fashion and beauty, Roberta can usually be found trawling resale sites and vintage stores for a long-coveted designer find. Follow Roberta on Instagram at @roberta__schroeder
