There are so many hyped-up skincare ingredients fighting for our attention these days, yet few are as widely praised as niacinamide.
Retinol? It’s great – but not everyone needs it. (If you're too young to remember SATC the first time around, you probably don't.) Alpha hydroxy acids? They can be brilliant for thorough exfoliation, but finding the right one for your skin type can be a minefield.
That’s the secret to niacinamide's success: it’s an all-round crowd-pleaser. This wonder vitamin is suitable for pretty much every skin type, and its benefits are easily reaped. What’s more, you don’t need to be a cosmetics chemist to understand how to use it correctly.
So stay with us for a deep dive into everything you need to know about niacinamide – what is it, what it'll do for you, how often you can use it, and the best niacinamide serums to place your trust in.
What is niacinamide?
'Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3', explains Andrea Pfeffer, founder of facial clinic Pfeffer Sal. 'Vitamins from this group are particularly famous for their soothing and healing properties.'
Found in certain foods and as a dietary supplement, niacinamide is perhaps best known today as an ingredient within your lotions and potions. Among its many talents 'it helps improve the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, tackle pigmentation, regulates oil production and help moisturise the skin,' shares Dr Malvina Cunningham, a consultant dermatologist at Skin + Me.
The latter makes it an excellent ingredient to add to your current line-up now that winter is firmly on the horizon, the clocks have gone back and your skin is no doubt feeling a little parched again.
ELLE Edit: Niacinamide For Oily Skin
La Roche-Posay Niacinamide B10 Serum
When our skin is acting up, it's in La Roche-Posay we trust. The brand's niacinamide serum contains a hefty dose of the good stuff alongside hyaluronic acid and anti-inflammatory extracts to soothe acne-prone complexions.
Medik8 Clarity Peptides™
Medik8, the masters of retinol, are pretty good with niacinamide too. This milky, calming serum is one of the speediest saviours you can reach for when blemishes strike. Apply liberally each night for clear skin by the weekend.
Breaking down the barriers between good skin and technical jargon is Byoma, a bank account-friendly brand that you've probably seen all over your Instagram already. This serum contains a skin-loving blend of niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and ceramides: a no-brainer for those wanting to minimise hyperpigmentation and improve tone while keeping their skin barrier hydrated and happy.
The Inkey List Niacinamide Serum
This affordable niacinamide serum gives anything but budget results; with 10% niacinamide alongside hydrating hyaluronic acid, it pretty much covers all bases. Crucially, it doesn't pill under foundation either.
Glossier Super Pure
Niacinamide is great on its own, but when you pair it with zinc you've got a serious power-couple situation. This no-messing watery serum is especially good for balancing overly oily, spot-prone skin.
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
This is the best budget niacinamide serum for blemishes out there – it's potent, easily absorbed, and blended with zinc for extra blemish-busting powers. However, it can pill beneath foundation, so best to employ it at night.
What are the benefits of niacinamide for the skin?
What exactly does niacinamide do? Well, this vitamin is a bit of a show-off when it comes to benefits for our skin. From boosting hydration to fading hyper-pigmentation, there's not much it doesn't claim to help with.
'Niacinamide works as an antioxidant and helps to fight harmful compounds caused by sun damage,' shares Dr Cunningham. 'It also increases the production of ceramides, which keep dry skin feeling more nourished and your skin barrier protected.' This can be a saviour when it comes to warding off any possible side effects associated with harsher or more potent active ingredients used in conjunction with niacinamide.
But is it all too good to be true? According to Paula Begoun, founder of Paula's Choice, this is one case where we really should believe the hype. 'Topically, niacinamide has so many ways to help skin it’s mind boggling,' she says.
'Extensive research has shown niacinamide works to protect skin from environmental damage and also prompts production of collagen and hyaluronic acid. It improves hydration, reduces signs of ageing, diminishes enlarged pores, and significantly lessens skin discolouration', she says.
Indeed, the studies do stack up in niacinamide's favour. It has been shown to reduce inflammation in moderate acne just as well as stronger, prescription-only treatments, and research has shown it can limit the overproduction of sebum in oily skin types, which in turn balances pore size. What’s more, it has even been proven to fade hyperpigmentation.
ELLE Edit: Niacinamide For Pigmentation And Texture
Paula's Choice Clinical Discolouration Repair Serum
Tranexamic acid might be the headliner in this pigmentation treatment, but it's the base of niacinamide that ensures its success. Apply it specifically to dark spots to help slow the production of melanin, which is the pigment behind that pesky sun damage.
Omorovicza Even Tone Serum
This creamy serum combines lightweight acids with niacinamide to gradually fade away all traces of that summer spent under the rays.
SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense Corrective Serum
An other power brightener, this lightweight serum gently exfoliates to unify skin tone.
Sunday Riley SUNDAY RILEY B3 Nice 10% Niacinamide Serum
Tackling pigmentation and dark spots, while also reducing the appearance of blackheads and pores, this daily serum by Sunday Riley works overtime to clarify, tone and hydrate your complexion.
'Niacinamide is the ultimate multitasker,' agrees Pfeffer. In fact, it's one of the only skin boosters that she recommends to almost all of her clients (along with hydration hero hyaluronic acid and, of course, SPF). 'It’s compatible with many other actives so you can incorporate it into your routine easily without worrying about adverse reactions.' she explains.
So, how can one ingredient be such a catch-all skin hero? According to Begoun, there are a number of factors. 'One way is because of its powerful antioxidant properties. Another is how niacinamide helps generate other important substances in skin. Even more notable is how it works as a "cell-communicating ingredient". This means niacinamide can "talk" to all kinds of cells in skin, telling them to make better, healthier, younger acting cells.
Studies have also shown niacinamide to be able to penetrate well into the skin when simply applied topically.
ELLE Edit: Niacinamide For Hydration
Verso Hydration Serum with Niacinamide
Dehydrated skin will drink up this calming blend of oat and niacinamide. A great one for the mornings, as it works brilliantly under foundation.
Vichy Minéral 89 Probiotic Fractions Recovery Serum
This no-frills serum contains a hefty 4% niacinamide alongside pre and probiotics to calm and fortify stressed, dehydrated and irritated skin. If the change in seasons has left your complexion red, sore or breaking out, slather on this watery formula every morning to see a rapid improvement.
Dr. Barbara Sturm The Better B Niacinamide Serum
Barbara Sturm's entire philosophy is based around bringing down inflammation, so you can trust her formulas to be gentle yet effective. This one blends niacinamide with plant-derived ection to reduce dehydration, tackling pores and lines in the process.
Drunk Elephant B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum
This hydration hero blends a hefty dose of hyaluronic acid with ceramides and niacinamide to give a weakened skin barrier some serious TLC. It's refreshing, milky and cooling: exactly what dry, dehydrated and sensitive skin types need.
Do we actually need niacinamide in our skincare?
Our bodies don't naturally produce niacinamide, but we can get it via our diets (providing we’re eating a healthy, varied range of foods). So, do we need to be supplementing our skin with it?
As Begoun explains, topical skincare can deliver a beneficial boost that could be the difference between good skin and great skin. 'Niacin is found in foods such as grains, fish, meat, and beans and converts to niacinamide when eaten. For the body, oral intake of niacin has been shown to have incredible benefits for health, and for skin, topical niacinamide is supported by long-standing research showing a wide range of remarkable benefits for all skin types and all ages,' she confirms.
ELLE Edit: Niacinamide For Barrier-Building
The Nue Co Barrier Culture Moisturizer
A true saviour for sensitised skin, this moisturiser contains an SOS combination of pre, pro and postbiotics alongside gentle emollients and good old niacinamide. It's great on rosacea-prone skin, too.
Drunk Elephant F-Balm™ Electrolyte Waterfacial
Like a tall glass of water for dehydrated skin, this rich night-time balm contains niacinamide, squalane and coconut extracts to satisfy the thirstiest of complexions.
Kiehl's Ultra Facial Advanced Repair Barrier Cream
This new addition to the legendary Ultra Facial line is designed to rebuild a barrier that's been affected by the weather or a topical terror (yes, that mega-strength glycolic acid counts).
Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Sleepair Intensive Mask
This intensive overnight treatment is designed to hydrate, strengthen and calm a depleted skin barrier, leading to plumper, more resilient skin. It's a cult hero for good reason.
Which skin types will benefit from niacinamide?
Both Pfeffer and Begoun agree that most of us can benefit from a dose of niacinimide in our skincare routines. However, your skin type will determine which kind of product you should choose.
As niacinamide is such an all-rounder, it tends to be combined with other ingredients in order to tailor the product's appeal: for example, a niacinamide product or dry skin may be bolstered with hyaluronic acid, while a niacinamide product for oily skin might contain clarifying salicylic acid. For sensitive types, something containing simple, soothing hydrators will be the best approach.
For oily skin that's prone to clogged pores, Begoun recommends a water-light serum, and for dry skin an emollient moisturiser or hydrating toner containing a lower concentration of niacinamide will do the trick.
'So many of us are in need of barrier strengthening and repairing, especially those who live or work in urban areas where pollution is higher,' says Pfeffer. 'And as an added bonus, niacinamide is safe to use throughout pregnancy and breastfeeding when hormonal fluctuations can wreak havoc on the skin (although do check the other ingredients in the product too).'
Are there any side effects to consider?
'Niacinamide is usually a very well tolerated active ingredient by most skin types,' says Dr Cunningham. 'In rare instances, it has been known to cause mild stinging, slight redness or irritation,' she warns.
For the most part, however, almost everyone can reap the rewards of this skin hero. And, since it's more gentle than its other skincare counterparts, it's usually regarded as safe to use during pregnancy, too.
Is is okay to use niacinamide every day?
Yes, unlike some of your less-than-easy-going skincare ingredients (retinol, looking at you) niacinamide is one that you can use every day, morning and night, alongside most other actives. 'That means you can use it in the evenings post-cleanse mixed with other active ingredients, or you can incorporate it into your morning routine layered underneath sunscreen, of course,' Dr Cunningham concludes.
