Polyglutamic acid might not yet be part of your skincare lexicon just yet – but, if you’re looking for something to help plump, hydrate and smooth skin, it's about to become your new go-to.
It isn’t as famous as hyaluronic, or half as hyped as vitamin C, but polyglutamic acid is the suits-everyone skin hydrator to unite us all. Here, the pros explain everything you need to know – including the best polyglutamic acid skincare products you'll find on the shelves right now.
What Is Polyglutamic Acid?
‘Polyglutamic acid is a multifunctional biopolymer produced via fermentation of L-glutamic acid with bacteria,’ explains Dr. Marko Lens, founder of Zelens. In layman’s terms? It’s a peptide with excellent humectant properties, which means it attracts water from the surrounding environment and holds it within the skin.
Which Skin Types Should Try Polyglutamic Acid?
As with most humectants, pretty much every skin type will get on well with polyglutamic acid – it’s a real crowd-pleaser. Dr. Lens describes it as especially well suited to ‘dry, dull, stressed and tired skin’. There are no contraindicating ingredients (meaning it won’t react negatively with any actives in your routine) and sensitive skin types can get involved with little risk.
Polyglutamic Acid Vs Hyaluronic Acid
So far, so familiar: and yes, polyglutamic acid does perform similarly to your go-to hyaluronic acid. However – plot twist – the former can actually hydrate skin even more effectively.
‘Polyglutamic acid is often compared with hyaluronic acid because they boast similar hydrating properties,' explains. Dr. Lens. 'However, what the majority of the people do not know is that polyglutamic acid can hold up to 5 times more moisture than hyaluronic acid – it's really an excellent humectant.’
Polyglutamic acid has a larger molecular weight than HA, meaning it sits closer to the surface of the skin. This might not sound like a good thing, but actually means your product will smooth the outermost layers of skin brilliantly, leading to results you can really see: think plumper, glowier skin and foundation that sits beautifully on top.
So, why has hyaluronic been winning the popularity contest for so many years? Dr. Lens puts it down to marketing and familiarity. 'The use of hyaluronic acid has been much wider simply because people know that hyaluronic acid is present in our skin naturally – and also because it has been used widely as an (injectable) filler.' In fact, you don't need to choose between one or the other: many of our favourite products actually combine the two, to really double-down on the hydrating appeal.
How To Use Polyglutamic Acid
Polyglutamic acid is relatively easy to formulate with, and so we're seeing it pop up in a wide array of products right now. A serum is the obvious choice: apply yours to damp skin after cleansing, then seal in all the moisture with a cream over the top.
If you don't want to part with your current favourite serum, you can also find polyglutamic acid popping up in face masks, creams and even some make-up. Whatever you choose, dewy glass skin is surely on the cards.
Below, see the skincare heroes team ELLE really rates.
The Best Polyglutamic Acid Skincare Products
REN Clean Skincare Perfect Canvas Essence
A serious crowd-pleaser from sensitive skin stalwarts REN, this outstanding essence combines hyaluronic and polyglutamic acids with biome-boosting ferments to calm, quench and prep skin for foundation. A brilliant one to add into your morning routine.
Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Re.pair Serum
This is the one to go for if you struggle to keep your redness-prone skin calm and clear. It's first and foremost a skin-soother, designed to tackle dryness and irritation, and works brilliantly on skin that's so dry it tends to flake. Team it with the matching moisturiser for major improvements.
Tula 24-7 Ultra Hydration Day & Night Serum
This brilliant new launch from probiotic-based brand Tula is your all-day, all-night hydrating hero. It's packed with all the good stuff: hydrating acids, squalane and pre- and probiotics keep your skin barrier happy and plumped.
Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum
This plumping serum is a stellar way to get Biossance's famous sugarcane squalane – which uses significantly less water to produce than olive squalane – into your routine. What's more, it's boosted with copper peptides, which work to boost the skin's production of collagen and elastin.
Dermalogica Circular Hydration Serum
While the benefits of many hydrating serums evaporate within hours, this one is designed specifically to impart moisture that really goes the distance. Massaged into damp skin and locked in with a layer of moisturiser, this blend of polyglutamic acid and biome-boosting fermented extracts really does keep skin supple from day to night.
111 Skin The Hydration Concentrate
For a total skin reboot, consider investing in 111 Skin's intensive ampoule course, which rehydrates and rebalances skin in seven days. Each single-use vial contains a potent blend of humectants that sinks straight into skin, eliminating dehydration as quickly as possible.
Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Moisturizer
Glow Recipe knows exactly how to create a winning skin-plumper. Case in point, this humectant-packed water-fresh cream, which combines all the moisture-locking acids with antioxidant plum. All skin types will love this one.
For something that offers more than hydration, head to Zelens. This smart serum uses melatonin to stimulate the skin's production of antioxidants, keeping you protected from free radicals in the air. For this reason, use it both day and night.
The INKEY List Polyglutamic Acid Serum
This is simply a brilliant, no-nonsense serum that amps up hydration without overloading skin. Use it liberally – it plays especially well under make-up.
